Places in-between: Tsuwano, Hagi, and Nagato Yumoto Onsen
The Chūgoku region’s name roughly translates as ‘middle country’. While Tsuwano, Hagi, and Nagato Yumoto Onsen sit within this area, there’s nothing average about this western corner of Honshu. This is a place where you can walk through hundreds of red torii gates with no one behind you, navigate streets with the same maps samurai used, dip your toes in a foot bath onsen, yukata robe on, before ordering a cocktail looking out across the Otozure River. It feels a world away from Kyoto or Tokyo, yet it’s surprisingly easy to reach. Yamaguchi City, the region’s gateway, is just over two hours from Kyoto. And despite that, Tsuwano, Hagi and Nagato Yumoto Onsen remain under visited, under loved and underestimated. One of Japan’s least populated corners, it’s also one of its most cultur ...
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