After all the hype you'll hear about Kyoto before you arrive (from us as much as anyone), on first glance the city may not live up to expectations. Most visitors arrive at Kyoto Station, a gleaming ode to futuristic architecture designed by Hiroshi Hara, before being swept out past tacky Kyoto Tower, drab concrete shops and karaoke bars. But Kyoto is Japan's seventh-largest city, not a tiny rural village, and it is the juxtaposition of modern, urban life against the time-honoured traditions that make this one of the most fascinating of Asian cities.

Kyoto was founded in 794 as Japan's capital and the home of Emperor Kanmu. Situated in a flat plateau, surrounded on three sides by mountains and bisected by the River Kamo, the city was laid out as a grid system in the tradition of Tang China. As the city fell prey to the inevitable evils of overcrowding, plagues and natural disasters; a plethora of temples and shrines with their attendant rituals and festivals - designed to placate the spirit world - were born. Many of these rituals survive largely unchanged to this day, and you can see them being played out on their appointed date every year.

Today, Kyoto is home to more than 2,000 temples and shrines, including an amazing 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Kyoto culture; a unique tapestry of influences from imperial nobility, samurai warriors, silk traders and Zen Buddhists; is still fiercely defended by Kyotoites - and thankfully, as it was not bombed during World War Two, a great many of its important historical buildings have been preserved to this day.

Given its status as the standard-bearer for Japanese culture and history, it is not really surprising that Kyoto attracts more than 40 million visitors a year. Packed with must-see sights, from the rock garden of Ryoan-ji to the Golden Pavilion of Kinkaku-ji, from the famous Kiyomizu-dera Temple to the "nightingale floors" of Nijo Castle; you will find that here it is impossible to escape the tour bus crowds. Yet for those who make the effort, Kyoto's narrow streets are packed with hidden beauties - exquisite gardens and little-known temples - that are quiet and peaceful even at the height of the tourist season.

For example, take the back exit from Kiyomizu-dera and you'll find yourself alone in the ancient and majestic cemetery which clings to the mountainside. Sanjusangendo is another less-visited treasure. The main temple hall is filled with 1,001 shining gold statues of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. There's always a chance to flee the crowds at Fushimi Inari, where thousands of torii shrine gates make a labyrinth of bright red tunnels along the mountain paths.

Then there are the places where the real heartbeat of Kyoto is found: Nishiki Market, where old ladies in kimono barter for mysterious ingredients; city centre sento bathhouses; and the tiny lantern-lit temples set amongst the shops in the Sanjo arcades. Kyoto is there to be uncovered and discovered, and once you have scratched the surface, it is a city sure to draw you back time and time again.