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The island of Hirado has more than enough breathtaking scenery to attract plenty of visitors who are “in the know”, but it doesn’t hurt that this small southern island also has more than a few historic oddities. This is the first place beer was ever enjoyed on Japanese soil and the landing place of the English ‘samurai’ William Adams, the principle character in James Clavell’s “Shogun”, who made his way here nearly 400 years ago. Hirado is the first place in Japan that green tea plants were grown and the home to a Japanese castle that looks out over an island dotted bay. In Hirado one can still find Japan’s famous hidden Christians, whose ancestors were converted by Francis Xavier when he visited in 1550. (I was looking forward to a bit of hide and seek but, much to my surprise and slight dismay, they are no longer actually hiding, just practicing a form of Christianity that isn’t found anywhere else in the world.) If none of this piques your interest than maybe you will be more interested in the birthplace of a Chinese hero who is worshiped as a god in Taiwan. (Although don’t get your hopes up, his birthplace is little more than a rock with a plaque on it near one of Hirado’s swimming beaches. Still, you do get the feeling that this island has witnessed some amazing history.)
As night settled in, I arrived at my ryokan with just enough time to have a dip in the onsen before dinner. Jumping in to a bath with a bunch of naked Japanese may not sound like an afternoon well spent but I assure you that it is more relaxing than it sounds and utterly addictive. A few minutes in the sauna and I was properly roasted and ready for dinner. I have had the benefit of living in Japan for a few years now so the thought of raw fish, octopus, egg custard with unidentifiable ingredients, and a soup of seaweed actually whets my appetite. If nothing’s moving then I generally don’t complain, but for my less adventurous companions a grill with Hirado’s home grown beef was prepared. After a bit of karaoke and a few beers with the kitchen staff I was more than ready for my futon.
The following day I went hiking on trails with 360-degree views of the surrounding islands and learned all about Japan’s whaling industry (like it or not) and “crybaby” sumo (a tournament unique to Hirado where the first baby to cry wins). I spent lunch sitting on the beach where Christian martyrs had been killed and enjoyed a view that looked like a tropical scene from Thailand. (Although, the lack of fat western old men in speedos walking with young Thai women meant I was clearly not in Phuket.) In the afternoon I hopped on to a converted fishing boat for a look at Hirado’s well-known “99 islands area”, a name used because it sounds better than the “208 islands area” (the actual number of islands just off the coast of Hirado). As the sun set and the lights on Hirado Bridge came on I sat down by the sea with a pint of the stuff that had first been brought here almost 400 years ago.
Since my first visit to Hirado last year, I have been back 7 times working as a tour leader and I can say with no exaggeration that I am looking forward to being back next week. Whether you are interested in Japanese history or just a bit of stunning scenery, I can’t imagine many places better than Hirado.