A Winter snow and sun adventure in Japan: One world, two contrasts

Posted on by Steve Parker
Taketomi Island, Okinawa

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What is there to do in the winter in Japan?

Surely it’s out of season, there are no cherry blossoms, so come on?

Who would bother? Here’s a little something to provoke a little thought…

As a Tour Leader with IJT, I have been on a bit of a winter break. Given the low bookings, that is normal for this time of the year, however instead, my parents decided that they would come and endure my tour leadership for a couple of weeks. And what a 2 weeks it has been. Certainly, like all tourists, my folks have their amusing foibles – inevitably emphasized as always in the flight of travel, but their decision to leave the wet, grey of the UK to experience something a little different, and extremely varied, left me once again in awe of this great country.

In 14 days we enjoyed the crisp, blue skies of Tokyo – perfect for a photography addict like my dad; bussed just an hour and a half out of Tokyo to enjoy rural walks with constant clear views of Mt Fuji; walked (alone) on the snowy Nakasendo highway in the central Nagano region; hung out with the famous Macaque Monkeys in Jigoku Valley; visited the gloriously maintained castle town of Matsumoto; dipped in outdoor baths in Hirayu Onsen’s snow world; marveled at the frozen Otaki waterfall; rode the Shin-Hotaka cable car to enjoy the best views possible of the Northern Alps; and walked trails cut into 3m of snow, before heading back to the capital. The only way to really show how extraordinary this all was is of course with a photo blog…

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Sumida River Cruiser the “Himiko” glides by Tokyo’s 634m Skytree and Asahi Beer Brewery with its unique “La Flamme D’Or”.
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Tokyo’s Hamarikyu Gardens in reflective mood, late afternoon.
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Even before the neon is switched on, wild and whacky Shinjuku shines bright in the Tokyo winter sun.
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Cable car ride above Kawaguchiko Lake, just an hour and a half from the capital!
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Fuji basks in late afternoon sun.
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Kawaguchiko Town at sunset.
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Into snow country – Magome town, the centuries’ old post town on the Nakasendo Highway.
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Dad has no problems avoiding cables or other tourists in his quest for the perfect shot in Magome – we passed just 5 people in the entire village!
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Mum realizes that we still have a long way to go until Tsumago Village, across the Prefectural border in Nagano.
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Happy snow hikers on the Nakasendo.
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A sole local wanders through Tsumago Village early morning.
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Deep snow of Nagano
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This young monkey enjoys a little attention from mum and the tourist visitors to the monkey reserve in Jigoku Valley, Nagano.
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Parents and monkeys with a sprinkling of snow.
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The perfect Matsumoto Castle. Renovated a tad since its completion in the early 1500s, however still a perfect example of Japanese castle architecture.
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Looking north on the Hotaka Cable Car towards Hotaka Dake Peak and the spearhead peak of Mt Yari, Nagano prefecture.
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Snow clings to the resilient pines.
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The breathtaking Hotaka Ridgline.
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Why not one more?
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Mum finds herself dwarfed by the deep Nagano snow.
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More snow-coated flora
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Hotaka’s unique double decker cable car.
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Hirayu Onsen’s little gem – the Otaki Falls which completely freeze in the deep winter months. Of course, we had the whole valley to ourselves again!
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How many photos of a waterfall? Glad I won’t be around to see all 200 at the next family barbecue:)
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The hospitable Hirayu No Mori Japanese Inn. A warm escape from the freezing conditions.
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Time for an outdoor hot spring bath in the snow. It may be minus 15 outside but who cares when you can relax in 42 degree water and take in the views!
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A little traditional “Hida Gasshozukkuri” architecture in Hirayu Onsen. Deep snow requires steep thatched roofs!
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Time for a little snowboarding of course, Hirayu Onsen. And yes, I had the resort literally to myself!!

Oh, did you think that was the end of the trip?

Not quite. After a brief repose in my Koenji home in West Tokyo, we then stepped on a plane in the wonderfully designed and smoothly functioning Haneda Airport for a 3 hour flight down to the Yaeyama Island chain of Okinawa Prefecture, namely to stay on Ishigaki Island. Here was a quite different experience I might add: guitars on the beach (private no less by default); snorkeling in cobalt shores – observing sea turtles, sea snakes and the rare blue coral; walking rocky coastlines; marveling at the tropical flora and fauna; touring the easily-navigable island by car; oh and at night enjoying the seafood hospitality and Karaoke talents of some retired Ishigaki gentlemen, including exclusive shamisen (3-stringed lute) performance – friends for life!  In contrast to all the previous week, Ishigaki looked something like this:

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Our traditional little Okinawan home for the week!
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Ishigaki mangrove and shoreline
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The snow melted here about 10,000 years ago. Time for shorts and sunglasses in the jungle!
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One of the many varieties of Hibiscus flowering on Ishigaki in January.
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Room with a view.
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Even my guitar enjoyed a little basking in the sun!
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My mum hogs the whole beach to herself – not a soul in sight until…
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…2 locals turn up, a little chilled in their “deep of winter” – it was only 24 degrees, after all! What do they expect if they don’t wear a scarf and gloves!
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However, even during the winter “chill” in Okinawa, the smiles are as warm as ever. Famed for their long life expectancy, elderly Okinawan women are renowned for their seemingly eternal energy. This young lady in her early 80s is testament to that – oh and, yes, she drank me under the table!
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The Toujin Tombs – in memory of 128 Chinese seafarers who lost their lives off the coast of Ishigaki, shipwrecked enroute to America in 1852.
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Sugar cane is cultivated on the island – producing molasses, syrups and fueling the islands popular confectionary industry.
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Getting around by car is very easy in January – for just 60 pounds for 2 days (including fuel), we were able to take in the whole island.
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Looking out from the observatory at Banna Park, just outside Ishigaki town.
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Rugged Sakieda Bay in NW Ishigaki.
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Kabira Bay – a place to marvel at the white sands and clear waters, then take a glass bottomed boat to view the coral and the teeming sea life.
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Rare blue tipped Coral.
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Fishes and coral of Kabira Bay.
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A lone visitor takes in the colour and tranquility of Kabira Bay.
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One more beach for the day – Ibaruma Bay. And, yes, yawn, we had it all to ourselves!!
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Cave view, Ibaruma Bay.
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A new day, a new island. A 15 minute boat ride took us out to the tiny island of Taketomi.
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Traditional drystone walls and housing on Taketomi Island.
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Local Wildlife on the tiny island of Taketomi
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Taketomi’s west pier – famed for its breathtaking sunsets. Its a shabby place in the daytime as you can see:)
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Glorious sea views from Kondoi Beach, Taketomi Island.
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A friendly local takes the salt from my sweaty hand.
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Talking of friendly locals – these folks are enjoying a sip or 2 of the local firewater, Awaomori. 42% ABV of head splitting, mind bending hooch. I suggest stick to a local Orion beer or something a little less potent! Ichiriki bar in Ishigaki Town has been run by its owner for 40years and is a great place to meet older local folk…
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…who you may find yourself eating with as guest of honor the following night – I was lucky to be able to take dad along for a seafood barbecue.
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Wonderful “Otonashi” (warm Japanese hospitality), especially important to the folks of Ishigaki.
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The sun sets on an amazing stay on Ishigaki. I will be back, hopefully my parents will consider the idea, too!

So there you have it – 2 weeks, a wealth of experiences, hot and cold, sunny and snowy. Don’t wait for the spring to arrive with the masses, get out here during the winter and REALLY experience something a little different – you’ll feel like you have Japan all to yourself!

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