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Steve has led tours all over the world, so when he says a city is worth visiting, we take him at his word! Here, he shares the best way to spend 24 hours in small Japanese city, Matsumoto.
Kamikochi – spot the wildlife
Ok, so I am stretching things a little here, but a Matsumoto day has to start somewhere… Strictly speaking, the Kamikochi area of the Japanese Northern Alps is within Matsumoto city limits, in Nagano Prefecture, central Honshu. So that is where my varied 24 fun-filled hours in Matsumoto will begin.
There is no better way to see in the new day than by waking up in this highland plateau. It’s some 1500m above sea level, and home to some of Japan’s most stunning alpine peaks. Before an early breakfast, an easy riverside stroll and a hit of fresh mountain air can invigorate the sleepiest of early risers.
It also offers the opportunity to spot a variety of birdlife – warblers, kingfishers and flycatchers – and feed macaque monkeys. These primates can sometimes be seen in the environs of the wonderful Kappabashi Bridge. It spans the Azusa River and offers a prime photo-spot for Hotaka Dake peak and its vertiginous 3000m high neighbours. Keep an eye out for those monkeys and be ready with the camera!
Kamikochi to Matsumoto
After an early morning nature fix, it’s then onto Matsumoto. Buses regularly take hardened hikers and day-trippers alike back and forth between the city and Kamikochi. Hopping on the 7.50am bus will have you in Matsumoto for just before 10am. The journey involves a spectacular ride, taking in views of the active Yake Dake volcano which last erupted in 1995. Spot the Taisho pond and huge hydroelectric dams that span the Azusa river valley as the bus descends.
After just over an hour on this fabulous bus journey, you’ll arrive at Shinshimashima railway station. There should be time to peruse the local fruit vendors’ produce before stepping on the tiny local train. Small stalls are often set up in the station or a 3-minute walk will bring you to local fruit shops. Plum-sized Shinshuu grapes, peaches, apples and Hata watermelons are all renowned for their flavour and juiciness. They may not be the cheapest, but more than make up for the price in taste, and are not to be missed.
Matsumoto Ukiyoe Museum
The 30-minute train ride weaves through orchards and rice paddies, offering the perfect contrast of flat agricultural landscape to Kamikochi’s rugged wilderness. There can be no time wasting on arrival at Matsumoto’s terminal station, so it’s baggage in lockers before a 10-minute taxi ride to Matsumoto’s wonderful Ukiyoe (woodblock print) Museum, on the fringes of town.
This gallery is home to a fine array of woodblock print masterpieces and an extremely tempting art shop – try leaving here without purchasing a print of your own! Before marvelling at the works, I highly recommend watching the fascinating English-language DVD that explains the labour-intensive process required to produce a print. From the tools used to the paper, carving techniques and the printer’s precision ink work, so many fascinating details are covered in just 25 minutes. It leaves you even more deeply in awe of the world-class historic prints on display. There are works by Hokusai Katsushika, Kitagawa Utamaru and Ando Hiroshige among others.
Kametaya Sake Brewery
After some classic traditional art, it’s on to a sake brewery to learn about the process of making this delicate and complex Japanese alcohol. I would opt for a short 15-minute walk from the museum. Stroll through the rural village lanes to Kametaya Sake Brewery – look out for the tall, black chimney stack. This small, historic brewery offers you an explanation of the family business and allows for a little tasting too. Be sure to take it steadily before lunchtime…
Hop on the local line train at tiny Shimonii station. Head back into the city to focus on the key districts in the heart of Matsumoto.
Matsumoto city
Although the city has a reasonably sizeable population of over 200,000 inhabitants, Matsumoto is very easy to navigate on foot. If the weather is fine, pick up a sandwich or rice ball for lunch and walk to the Metoba River. It’s just 10 minutes from the railway station towards the castle. Access the riverside from Nawate Street and eat lunch to the sound of flowing fresh mountain water flowing through the district. Be sure to fill up your water bottle at one of the pristine natural springs dotted around town on the way.
After lunch it’s time to check out the shops on both Nawate and nearby Nakamachi Street – antiques, fabrics, ceramics, 2nd hand book shops and more are on offer here. Many of the shops occupy ivory-white restored Edo Period storehouses, creating a charming setting that takes you back in time. If you prefer to people watch for a while, there is, of course, always a good cup of coffee or beer never more than a few steps away. A number of establishments also provide comfortable outdoor seating.
Matsumoto “Black Crow” Castle
Matsumoto’s pride and joy is its majestic late 16th century “Black Crow” castle. It’s one of the finest preserved examples of castle architecture to be found anywhere in Japan. Be sure to do a full lap around the site first. The free park surrounding the main keep is a wonderful way to mix with the Japanese locals and tourists alike. Photography enthusiasts can capture the main keep in all its glory from a variety of perspectives. The fabulous bright red bridge, moat, swans, carp and on a clear day, the backdrop of the Japanese Alps are sure to be the focus of your photography, too.
After a full lap, you are likely drawing towards the end of the afternoon. Hopefully the crowds have dwindled by now, allowing you to take in the interior of the castle – complete with samurai armour and weaponry – at leisure. Be sure to work out where the secret floor is relative to the castle’s exterior and find its secret escape routes. Discover how many moons were really visible from the samurai lord’s Moon Viewing Room, and learn all about the defensive strategies in place in case of attack.
Food & drink in Matsumoto
As we draw into early evening it’s time for an early pre-dinner drink. Stop off at Standing 8 Onsu (ounce) bar, on the corner across from the Kagetsu hotel. This establishment is a tiny stool-less bar that squeezes in locals on their way home from work. Space is so tight here, that it’s almost impossible not to get chatting to other customers in pidgin English or Japanese. Enjoy a glass with the local Matsumoto folk, kampai (cheers)!
Now, with a beer (or alternative tipple) in your belly, it’s time for dinner, and hopefully a less inhibited approach to the local cuisine. Shizuka is a charming local restaurant that offers a whole range of options. There are the conventional tonkatsu (pork cutlet), salads, even Japanese-style curry. Then there are the more “interesting” local specialities, such as stonefly larvae, bee larvae and Matsumoto favourite – raw horse meat. The latter, I should add, is specifically bred for consumption, and tastes great with soy sauce, garlic and ginger. Try to get seats at either the counter, so that you can enjoy a free cooking class, or request a garden-view seat out back. Wherever you choose to sit, the warmth of local hospitality pervades, and you are sure to have a memorable meal.
Sunset at Matsumoto Castle
With a full belly, head back to the castle grounds (5 minutes away) for one last glimpse. After sunset, the castle is flooded with lighting, offering a spectacular night view of this wonderful structure. I’m sure you’ll be getting the camera out again for a few more photos.
Finally, if the night owl in you is calling – even after the early start you had this morning – head down to Bar Gnu near the station. The comfortable lounge bar ambience of this well-known Matsumoto nightspot is a great choice for a relaxed night cap. Reflect on an exciting day in Matsumoto and share stories of your day of adventure with a local or two.
Join one of our expert tour leaders to see the highlights of Matsumoto in cherry blossom season on our Spring Elegance Small Group Tour.